The Lakes – Kai Iwi Lakes Exclusive Retreat

HOTEL OVERVIEW

Honestly, I wasn’t sure what to expect when I first pulled up to The Lakes on Kai Iwi Lakes Road – it’s one of those places that’s genuinely remote, about 45 minutes from Dargaville through some pretty winding back roads. But you know what hits you immediately? The silence. Not the fake “peaceful retreat” kind you read about, but actual, proper quiet where you can hear birds you forgot existed and the gentle lap of lake water that’s this incredible turquoise color you don’t expect to find in New Zealand.

The retreat itself sits right on the edge of the largest Kai Iwi lake, and I mean *right* on it – you can literally walk from your room to the sandy shore in about thirty seconds. The accommodation is modern without being sterile (though I’ll be honest, some of the furniture feels a bit too minimalist for my taste), and every room faces the water, which is smart planning. What really got me was how they’ve managed to make it feel exclusive without being pretentious – there are only a handful of units, so you’re not fighting crowds for lake access or the best spots on the deck. The staff actually knows your name by day two, and not in that forced hospitality way. Check-in was refreshingly straightforward too, none of that drawn-out process some places put you through.

Here’s the thing about Kai Iwi Lakes that locals will tell you – the water is spring-fed and stays surprisingly warm even in winter, plus it’s completely fresh water, which means it’s perfect for swimming without that ocean saltiness. The retreat takes full advantage of this with kayaks and paddleboards available (though honestly, just floating around is pretty perfect). Parking’s never an issue since you’re basically in the middle of nowhere – well, beautiful nowhere. The nearest proper town is Dargaville, so stock up on anything you need before heading out, though the retreat can arrange meals if you don’t want to self-cater. I’d actually recommend staying at least two nights because the first day you’re just unwinding from the drive and adjusting to the pace, and by the second day you start to really appreciate how special this little pocket of Northland is. It’s the kind of place where you find yourself sitting on the deck with a drink, watching the light change on the water, and actually feeling your shoulders drop for the first time in months.